CIVIL WAR DEMO~ January 12, 2008

American Civil War, December 1862: Major General Ambrose Burnside, in command of the Union Army of the Potomac, sent troops to occupy the vicinity of Fredericksburg. General Robert E. Lee reacted by entrenching the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia on the heights behind the town. Burnside originally planned to cross the Rappahannock River 10 miles downstream from the town of Fredericksburg, but Confederate troops arrived there and blocked him. So he decided to cross directly at Fredericksburg. On December 12th, the Federal army went over the river and through the town. Over the next couple of days, Burnside mounted a series of assaults on Prospect Hill and Marye’s Heights which proved futile. Consequently, Burnside called off the offensive on December 15 and retreated across the river, ending the campaign and resulting in a Confederate victory.

Public Domain Image: Battle of Fredericksburg by Kurz and Allison

Several families in our homeschool group stepped back in time to the day when the Union Army attacked the town of Fredericksburg in December 1862. The boys in particular really got into it and had a blast! The Battle of Fredericksburg re-enactment took place at Pioneer Village, Arizona's most historically accurate living history site, with 90 acres located off I-17 just south of Anthem.

Considering all of the unusually rainy weekends we've had lately, we were lucky that it was a beautiful clear winter day. The re-enactors said that it was perfect weather for wearing their wool uniforms - but even so, they still got hot marching out there under the bright desert sun!

We arrived at 9:00 am when the gates opened and that gave us plenty of time to visit the Union soldiers' camp before the fighting began. Both Union and Confederate re-enactors are a great bunch of guys, eager to offer information and answer questions.

A Civil War Encampment, where soldiers slept in canvas tents.

The troops would practice loading their weapons, attaching bayonets, and performing various maneuvers. The boys in our group lined up to drill with the soldiers.

"The first thing in the morning is drill. Then drill, then drill again. Then drill, drill, a little more drill. Then drill, and lastly drill."

Live demonstrations focused on Weapons, Cooking, and Camp Life. The kids rolled paper ammo cartridges, got to hold a gun (the average musket weighs 8-9 pounds), and ate a piece of hardtack (a flour-and-water biscuit, which in those days often became infested with weevils and maggots).

Relaxing around the campfire. When not drilling, standing guard, or faced with the sheer terror of battle, soldiers would spend their spare time reading, writing letters to loved ones, playing cards and other games.

Union troops getting ready for action. It was a great honor to be the flag bearer and when a flag bearer fell in battle, someone else would leap forward to take his place. But their mortality rate was quite high since the goal of the opposing force was to seize the enemies' colors.

The Union Troops Advance Through Fredericksburg!

Confederate citizens either went into hiding, ran away, or prepared to defend their homes and businesses as the Union army invaded their town.

Some of the townspeople got involved in the street fight. (It was an exciting interactive experience for the spectators, too. A gang of boys - mine included! - ran after the Union army, tossing rolled-up newspaper "rocks" at them, but there was so much commotion at the time that I didn't get a picture of that!)

The Confederate troops fall back as the Union army advances. (Newspaper ball "rocks" can be seen on the ground behind them.)

Union soldiers ransacked the town (and got back at the boys who had pelted them with "rocks" by throwing ladies' clothing at them).

Union troops gathering in front of the bank.

Hanging out at the Sheriff's Office.

The Union Army's orders were: "Push a column of a division or more along the Plank and Telegraph roads, with a view to seizing the heights in the rear of the town." In the battle of Marye's Heights, Union troops tried to take the hill, but the Confederates were already entrenched behind a stone wall.

Confederate troops on the march.

Casualties lying in the street.

The Confederates are victorious, and the Union Army retreats. The actual battles lasted from approximately 10:30 - 2:30 with a lunch break in between. We stayed for a while afterwards to wander around and chat with the Confederate soldiers, then left at 3:00 pm although we could have stayed until 5:00.

This event was sponsored by the Arizona Civil War Council, Inc. The Arizona Civil War Council (ACWC) is a non-profit association of volunteer history enthusiasts who re-enact events of the Civil War and Arizona's Territorial Period.

WANTED: ARIZONA VOLUNTEER REENACTORS: No experience is needed and gun NOT required. Instructions will be given on making or buying uniforms, men’s civilian clothes, and costumes for ladies and children. You must be over 16 to use any weapons; under 16 may be drummers, flag bearers, or cannon-assistants IF accompanied by a parent. Dues are about $20/year to cover liability insurance. Visit their website at http://www.arizonacivilwarcouncilinc.com/ for more information.

Did you know...? Gods & Generals (the prequel to the hit movie Gettysburg) showed the Battle of Fredericksburg with its street fighting scenes. In fact, one of the re-enactors on the Confederate side with whom we were talking afterwards explained how he actually played a major role in the movie Gettysburg, as well as Glory.

Additional Info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Fredericksburg - Battle of Fredericksburg

http://www.nps.gov/frsp/fire.htm - Fire in the Streets

http://www.nps.gov/frsp/assault.htm - Assault on Marye’s Heights

http://www.nps.gov/archive/gett/soldierlife/cwarmy.htm - What was life as a Civil War soldier like? Get more details in this fascinating article from Gettysburg National Military Park.

LIFE & TIMES OF LAURA INGALLS WILDER ~ November 10, 2007

This field trip combined lots of fun with learning about history, and it was a gorgeous day – neither too chilly nor too warm, but just right! About 20 kids (ages 4-12) and 14 parents showed up with the Desert Hills CHristian Homeschoolers group. Sharon Cullers, a homeschool mom, was our tour guide. She was assisted by her daughter and daughter-in-law.
First we went to visit the Bank and Sheriff’s Office. The sheriff locked up our lunches in the jail for safekeeping.

Then we got to sit inside the old church and take a group picture on the front steps, and after that we peeked into the teacherage.
Next door, we had “class” in the one-room schoolhouse.

The kids got to sit at the old school desks, while Mrs. Cullers taught us about the life and times of Laura Ingalls Wilder, the author of the Little House on the Prairie book series.

At recess the kids played old-fashioned games – they rolled hoops around, played tug of war, and jumped rope. My son Jon exclaimed, “Wow, who knew that these old games could be so much fun!”

We got to watch a gun fight and pose for a picture with the gunfighters after the show.

After that, we ate a picnic lunch on the village green and learned how to do the Virginia Reel.

Then we went to the blacksmith shop, where the blacksmith showed us how they used to make tools, horseshoes, and nails.
We looked at the Exhibit Hall, and from there we walked over to a large log cabin from the1880's. This is where we made butter, candles, and rope.
Even though we were at Pioneer Village the whole day long (8:30 am to 4:30 pm), the time sure went fast! One girl said “This was the best day of my life!”

Here is an article that I wrote several years ago about Laura Ingalls Wilder: www.knowledgehouse.info/njfklaura.html . It has a recipe for making homemade butter, similar to what we made at the place. Yum! This was the third time that our family has done this field trip and we always enjoy it!

Did You Know…? Whenever school attendance was impossible because of distance or weather, Laura was taught by her mother at home. Later, Laura homeschooled her own daughter Rose.

“I believe it would be much better for everyone if children were given their start in education at home. No one understands a child as well as his mother, and children are so different that they need individual training and study. A teacher with a room full of pupils cannot do this. At home, too, they are in their mother’s care. She can keep them from learning immoral things from other children.” ~Laura Ingalls Wilder

EL MORRO, NM ~ May 27, 2007

Just west of El Malpais National Monument on Highway 53, is El Morro National Monument. Between these two parks, simply marked with a little sign, is the Continental Divide. This is the natural geologic and hydrologic north-south boundary that runs through North America, separating the Atlantic Ocean watershed from the Pacific Ocean watershed.

When we were driving to El Morro I didn’t know what to expect so after a while I was wondering if we had passed it. But I found out that it’s impossible to miss this landmark from the highway! El Morro – “the headland” or “the fortress” – was quite impressive even from a distance. About 15 miles west of the Continental Divide, in the middle of a high desert plain you suddenly come upon a huge rock formation looming 200 feet above the surrounding landscape. It reminded me of El Capitan at Yosemite, CA.

So it’s a large rock, what’s the big deal you say? Well, there is much more to it than that! El Morro’s prominence actually has more to do with history than geology. This sandstone monolith sheltered an oasis that attracted Anasazi, Spanish, and American travelers throughout a 700-year period. Just go to the Visitor Center and find out all about it. The building is set up like a museum with exhibits and a video to watch, which provide an overview of El Morro’s significance at the “Crossroads of the Southwest.”

To begin with, an ancient Indian route between the Acoma and Zuni pueblos led directly past El Morro. Then sometime in the late 13th century, Anasazi Indians built an 875-room pueblo on top of the bluff. It was an easily defensible spot, inaccessible to outsiders, with a shaded pool at the base of the cliff for a dependable year-round water source. The pool also attracted coyotes, deer and other wild creatures. Rain and snow melt kept the pool filled to the brim, with cattails growing at the water’s edge. However, after a couple of generations the Anasazis abandoned that site for unknown reasons as they did others in the Southwest. Their petroglyphs of bear tracks, human hands, and other symbols can still be seen on the sandstone wall.

Following the Indians came the Europeans. El Morro became as much of a landmark and water source for the Spanish conquistadors as it was for the natives. Not everyone left a message, but the first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal of Diego Pérez de Luxán. He traveled with the Espejo Expedition, which stopped there for water on March 11, 1583. Don Juan de Oñate, the first Spanish Governor of Northern New Spain, carved his name with the words “pasó por aqui” (“passed by here”) on April 16, 1605.

In 1680, the Pueblo Indian revolt drove the Spaniards from New Mexico. Twelve years later, Don Diego de Vargas, the most famous governor of New Mexico, restored order and left this message at El Morro: “Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who conquered for our Holy Faith and for the Royal Crown all of New Mexico at his own expense, year of 1692.” (At that time, the province of New Mexico extended roughly from the border of Louisiana to the border of California.)

Many more explorers, soldiers, Indian agents, surveyors, pioneers, and settlers stopped at El Morro. These include: Dominguez-Escalante (1776), De Zuñiga (1795), Young (1829), Sitgreaves (1851), Whipple (1853), Doniphan (1846), J.H. Simpson and R.H. Kern (1849), sheep drives to and from California (1830-1880), and military wagons (1840-1880). It was on August 23, 1859, when an Army expedition led by Lieutenant Edward Beale passed by El Morro as they sought to survey a wagon road from Texas to California. Beale’s entourage included 25 Egyptian camels being tested as pack animals. Their wrangler, P. Gilmer Breckinridge, also left his signature on the rock.

After the Beale wagon road was established, so many visitors passed by this site as they headed westward toward California, that the Inscription Rock at El Morro was almost as popular as Register Cliff (Guernsey, WY) along the Oregon Trail. The Prescott to Santa Fe stagecoach line also ran by El Morro from 1863-1882. This road continued to be the major route west until a railroad line was built about 20 miles to the north and travelers no longer depended on the water supply at El Morro.

The inscriptions at El Morro range from ancient petroglyphs, to simple scratchings, to elaborate scripts, to etchings by professional tombstone carvers. Some of the older carvings were even overlapped by newer ones. While at one time it was desirous to carve your name in the inscription rock, today you’re not allowed to touch any of the carvings or add your own. Since 1906 when the site was proclaimed to be a National Monument, it’s been closed to all new rock writings due to the historical significance of this stone document. But just outside the visitor center they provide a large chunk of soft sandstone for those who can’t resist the urge to see their name written in stone.

There is a $6.00 per person admission charge at El Morro to go out on the trail. (They will give you a detailed booklet that translates the Spanish engravings and explains each person named.) It’s an easy, half-mile, one-hour or less self-guided walk to see the pool and inscriptions. A more strenuous two-mile hike leads to the Indian pueblos on top of the bluff. But even if you don’t venture any further, you can learn a lot at the Visitor’s Center museum for free. It was getting late in the day when we were there and none of us felt like walking any more after our long hike at El Malpais, so we just stayed in the museum and watched the movie about it. But next time I definitely want to go back there and take the trail!

GRANTS, NM ~ May 26, 2007

The town of Grants is named after the Grant brothers who contracted to build the section of transcontinental railroad in this area. Although the first settlers had raised livestock, the timber industry took over once the railroad came in. Logging camps and sawmills sprang up throughout the Zuni Mountains, with branch lines connected to the main railway. In 1931, the lumber business slowed down as did the rest of the nation’s economy. By World War II, railroad logging had ended. Uranium mining began to flourish in the early 1950’s until the 1980’s when that also declined. The town’s population has dropped considerably since then, but Grants looks like a nice community with well-kept parks for the residents and mining museums for the tourists. Grants is the nearest town with hotels close to our next destination of El Malpais National Monument, but this was a budget trip for us and we were going to be camping, which is also easily available in the forested areas around Grants.

One thing to keep in mind about both Grants and Gallup is that most stores and restaurants are closed on Sunday. Coming from Arizona where everything is open all the time, this was surprising and seemed rather quaint in our current day and age. It’s a good thing we were traveling on a budget anyway and had brought a cooler full of sandwiches and snacks. Even so, Rich at least wanted to sample some New Mexico chili so on Saturday night we did stop at a place called Chili Kicks on Route 66. It’s owned by a local chili cookoff winner, Millie Chavez. She had won first place at the annual Chili Fiesta in Grants, as well as first place at the Sky City Salsa and Chili Championships. Definitely a family restaurant, the Chavez family was eating there at the time, too. The furnishings were simple, the prices were inexpensive, and the portions were plenty. The chili, salsa, and enchilada sauce were indeed good but they were all extremely HOT, even for us Arizonans. It’s a good thing they had free refills on soft drinks! If you have tender taste buds, you can just get a plain bean burrito with Spanish rice on the side, which wasn’t too hot. Sit by the window so you can watch the trains go by.

GALLUP, NM ~ May 26, 2007

While the Acoma, Hopi, Navajo, and Zuni Pueblo Indians have lived in northwestern New Mexico for centuries, it also seems that this area has always been a thoroughfare for travelers. Spanish Conquistadors led by Francisco Coronado arrived in the region in 1540, and although this wasn’t the “Seven Cities of Gold” that they were searching for, they did find a sophisticated network of roads connecting the various Indian settlements.

The Spanish were followed by other explorers, mountain men, cattle ranchers, cowboys, sheepherders, homesteaders, and expeditions sent by the U.S. Government to map the territory. (New Mexico became a U.S. territory in 1848.) Europeans, Asians, and Mexicans came to work in the region’s coal mines and build the railroad in the late 1800’s. (Originally called Carbon City, railroad workers re-named the town in 1881 after David Gallup, a paymaster for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad.)

The establishment of Route 66 in the 1920’s led to an increased stream of travelers through Gallup, from farmers fleeing the dust bowl to soldiers starting a new life after World War II. Gallup was one of the first cities along Route 66 to have paved streets from end to end, and the town’s name is mentioned in the lyrics to the popular song, “Route 66.” Today, people still travel that route to see the wonders of the American Southwest.

Gallup is sometimes called the “Indian Capital of the World” for its centralized location in the heart of American Indian country. Since the early frontier days, Gallup has served as a major trading area for Indian arts and crafts. Gallup is the largest city in the American Southwest that holds onto this unique tradition. While Gallup is now a modern trade and tourism center it still retains its trading post atmosphere, western frontier flavor, unique cultural diversity, classic Route 66 roots, and productive railroad industry.

Driving into downtown Gallup along Route 66 you will see a bustling place with lots of traffic moving through, tourists shopping for souvenirs, and trains running along the tracks. There is a big lumber yard right in the center of town. There are over 100 trading posts, shops and galleries specializing in original American Indian art, including upscale galleries for the discriminating buyer. But the transient nature of the town combined with a plethora of roadside motels makes for cheap lodging, which means you will also find plenty of pawn shops, liquor stores, and fast food restaurants in Gallup. There are a dozen old motels all within a mile of the center of town.

El Rancho Hotel with its huge neon sign and western motif is a prime example of the heyday of Route 66. El Rancho was built as a home-away-from-Hollywood for movie stars filming in the area. These included such notable actors as Jackie Cooper, John Wayne, Ronald Reagan, Humphrey Bogart, Katherine Hepburn, and Kirk Douglas. We stopped for gas at a Texaco station across the street from El Rancho, and later I found out that it’s also a Route 66 landmark that the same family has owned and operated since 1939. Oh, and speaking of movie stars, it was great to see an old single screen theater still in operation in the heart of downtown Gallup. Built in 1928, El Morro theater features performing arts as well as movies. (Spiderman 3 was on the marquee when we drove by.)

It was interesting to see that Gallup is a hillside town with steep side roads leading up from the main street into residential neighborhoods. While cruising along Route 66, look for the parking area next to the tracks where there is an old caboose with a map painted on it. You can step up onto the caboose and peek in the windows while watching the trains go past. We were separated from the train tracks by only a fence, and we could hear every squeak and creak of the train cars as they rumbled by. Once when we weren't looking, a locomotive blew his horn right next to us and made us jump!

WINSLOW, AZ ~ May 26, 2007

We got an early start on Friday night and camped about 20 miles south of Winslow, AZ. On Saturday morning upon arriving in Winslow we explored the town and cruised Historic Route 66.

As seen from I-40, this little old town in the middle of nowhere doesn’t seem like much and many people just pass it by. But if you get off the freeway and take a closer look, you will find that Winslow is a wonderful destination in itself! In true Route 66 tradition, the town maintains several unique roadside attractions that are well worth putting this charming place “back on the map.”

▪ Standin’ on the Corner Park has become a draw for music fans who remember the line “standin’ on the corner in Winslow Arizona, such a fine sight to see” from the Eagles’ hit song Take It Easy.

▪ Route 66 fans will enjoy Winslow’s historic downtown business district located right on the Mother Road. Shops and museums offer Route 66 and railroad memorabilia. As one of the major hubs of the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad, train enthusiasts can see the locomotives roar into town. While we were there, we got to hear an engine start up right next to us and watch the train as it slowly crawled away. The track runs parallel with the main street, so there are many vantage points from which to stop and look.

▪ La Posada, a grand hotel designed by renowned Southwest architect Mary Colter, is the last Fred Harvey Hotel surviving in the West. It’s located in downtown Winslow right next to the tracks, a throwback to the days of transcontinental rail travel. All passenger trains running between Los Angeles and Chicago stopped at La Posada in the 1930’s and 1940’s. It closed in 1957 but in 1997 the hotel was restored to its former elegance.

▪ The First Street Pathway links two important historical sites in downtown Winslow: the Hubbell Trading Post (Winslow’s new Visitor Center) and La Posada Hotel. The landscaped pathway is six blocks long and has displays the represent Winslow’s diverse history. Pretty neat!

▪ Old Trails Historical Museum is another location that will interest history buffs. It opened in 1985 in an old downtown bank building constructed in 1920. It still has the original tile floor, marble counters, and vault.

▪ If you don’t stop in Winslow for anything else, the 9-11 Remembrance Garden is a must-see. How could there be a memorial of this magnitude in Arizona without me having heard about it??? It consists of two rusted steel girders from the World Trade Center towers, a flag that was flown at the Pentagon, and a commemorative bronze plaque. The 14 and 15 foot beams are the largest pieces given to any community in the nation by the City of New York, and amazingly they’re displayed right here in Winslow. This was a totally unexpected, emotionally stirring, and quite fitting monument to discover on Memorial Day weekend. The Remembrance Garden is located on the corner of a vacant lot at East 3rd Street and Transcon Lane, right across from the railroad tracks. (From I-40, take exit 255.)

YUMA TERRITORIAL PRISON ~ March 17, 2007

The Territorial Prison at Yuma is located at 1 Prison Hill Road, just around the bend from Yuma Crossing State Historic Park. Built in 1876, over 3,000 prisoners including 39 women lived within these walls during the prison's thirty-three years of operation. Their crimes ranged from polygamy to murder, with grand larceny being the most common.

This prison was featured in many western movies and despite an infamous reputation, no executions took place there and it was actually a model institution for its time -- complete with a library and schooling for inmates, church services, electric lights and ventilation system, and regular medical checkups. The worst punishment was the dark cave-like cell for inmates who broke prison regulations.

The three-foot-thick rock walls of the main cell block are lined with iron gratings. Twelve cells were dug into the hillside in 1900 to relieve overcrowding. However, by 1907 there was no room on Prison Hill for expansion. As many as 10 inmates had to be packed into a cell measuring 8 x 10 feet. A new facility was constructed in Florence, Arizona and the last prisoner left Yuma on September 15, 1909.

The Yuma Union High School occupied the prison buildings from 1910 to 1914. In the 1920’s, the prison was used as free lodging by hobos riding the freight trains which ran right alongside one of the prison walls. The empty cells also sheltered many Depression-era homeless families. Even the main guard tower served various functions, including a Civil Defense lookout during World War II.

Today, all that’s left standing are the cells, main gate (adobe walls and iron bars), and restored guard tower (a wooden structure built over top of the water tank to limit evaporation). Museum exhibits document the story of the prison with artifacts and interpretations of prison life, photos and bios of former convicts, and more. The guard tower has a commanding view of the surrounding area.

Adjacent to the parking lot is a nature trail that leads down to the Prison Cemetery which is located just outside the park near the Colorado River. One hundred and eleven prisoners died while serving their sentences, mostly from tuberculosis which was common throughout the territory and spread easily in close quarters. Only nine were killed while trying to escape. The graves are not much more than piles of stones, the wooden markers having been either stolen or deteriorated.

YUMA CROSSING STATE HISTORIC PARK ~ March 17, 2007

Yuma Crossing State Historic Park was the site of the Yuma Quartermaster Supply Depot, used by the U.S. Army to store and distribute supplies for all the military posts in Arizona, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico and Texas. A six month supply of clothing, food, ammunition, and other goods was kept at the depot at all times. The supplies were brought from California by ocean vessels traveling around the Baja Peninsula to Port Isabel near the mouth of the Colorado River. There, cargos were transferred to river steamers and brought upstream to Yuma. The depot was in operation from 1864-1883.

While we were at this state park we had a chance to see a 1907 Southern Pacific Steam Locomotive and Coach Car, a transportation museum with wagons and other vehicles on display (including a riverboat replica and tons of historic photos), and some nice exhibits in the Visitor Center (the centerpiece of which is a Model T Ford on a wooden plank roadway). If you venture into a side room where they show films, be sure to look at the old black-and-white photos on the wall. One of them is a photo of a local bridge from long before WWII, but guess what design is painted on the side? (We did a double-take upon seeing the swastika, but this symbol was actually found in many ancient cultures before Hitler started using it.)

Yuma Crossing State Historic Park is located on the east side of 4th Avenue. All you have to do is find 4th Avenue, head in the direction of the Colorado River, and you will see the park grounds on the east side of 4th Avenue just past the old downtown area.

ARIZONA ARCHAEOLOGY EXPO ~ March 17, 2007

March is “Arizona Archaeology Heritage Awareness Month.” Museums, historical societies, tribes, parks, and archaeological organizations across the state host archeology events during this month. The main featured event is the Arizona Archaeology Expo which is held at Yuma Crossing State Historic Park.

We’ve been aware of Archeology Month for years and this was the first time we finally had a chance to attend the Expo. I don’t know why they always have it way down there, but we found out that it was well worth the trip. First of all, the event itself is FREE. Plus it’s like getting a two-for-one deal because while you’re at the Expo, you can also explore the entire park grounds and learn about the history of the Yuma Crossing (which was quite interesting in itself; please go on to read the next post after this one).

The Archaeology Expo offers many educational attractions for archaeology and history buffs, as well as for children. Visitors learn about the prehistory and history of Arizona, why it is important to preserve archaeological sites and historic places, what archaeologists and historians do in their jobs, and more. The two-day event features workshops, hands-on activities, craft demonstrations, and other fun and educational events. There are special displays and booths by archaeological and historical organizations, museums, Native American tribes, state and federal agencies, and others. Entertainment includes living history re-enactors, storytellers, and American Indian dancers.

The kids got to make clay pots, petroglyphs and rubbings for bringing home. They also liked looking at the sample dig site that was set up, and digging for their own finds in a tub of sand. They got to use a primitive wooden drill, toss a boomerang, and throw spears at a mammoth. There was lots of literature to pick up, and souvenir canvas totes to carry it all in. We even got to see a weaving demonstration. They also offer guided tours of historic period sites in the Colorado River Valley area, but we didn’t have time to go on any of them.

We spent about three hours in the afternoon at the Expo and looking around the 10-acre park grounds. Many of the exhibitors were packing up their stuff and leaving before we did. Who could blame them, they were worn out after spending two days in the heat. Unbelievably, it was the second hottest day ever recorded in March – officially 101°F at the Yuma Airport, but the park rangers said that their thermometer read 103°. Either way, no one was prepared for it to be that hot in March! My kids even went in the pool that week – the first time they ever got to go swimming when it was still winter! Thankfully the park staff provided ice cold water in coolers. We refilled our little paper cups often!

I was surprised, though, to see that there weren’t too many visitors. It wasn’t crowded at all and the kids didn’t even have to wait in line to do the activities. I don’t know if it was the heat that kept people away, or if it’s never very crowded because of the remote location at the southwest corner of the state, or perhaps their busy day is Friday for school tours. I sure hope enough people attend these annual archeology open houses to make a difference in promoting a sense of stewardship for our state’s nonrenewable heritage resources.

A free listing of Arizona Archaeology Month events as well as brochures on archaeological sites in the state of Arizona—complete with descriptions, hours of operation, directions, and a map—can be obtained by calling the Arizona State Parks State Historic Preservation Office at 602-542-4174. Archaeology Month information can also be found on their website at www.pr.state.az.us.

San Diego Maritime Museum ~ December 29, 2006

We’ve walked past the Maritime Museum on San Diego’s Embarcadero dozens of times and admired the ships from the outside, but it was the addition of the HMS Surprise from Master and Commander fame that finally got us to pay the admission charge and take the time to venture on board. All these years, I never realized how extensive the exhibits are once you get in there! While walking around on old ships is fun as it is, there is also much more to see and do at the Maritime Museum while you’re at it.

The Maritime Museum of San Diego features one of the world’s finest collections of historic ships, including The Star of India which is the world’s oldest active sailing ship. The museum’s collection also includes the 1898 steam ferryboat Berkeley; the 1904 steam yacht Medea; the 1914 harbor Pilot boat; the state’s official tall ship Californian;a B-39 submarine; and the HMS Surprise.

The museum displays many exhibits on maritime history and offers a wide variety of educational adventures for schoolchildren and the public such as historic boat rides, sailing adventures, cannon battles, family days, and other special events. For example, the museum’s schooner Californian takes passengers out on San Diego Bay and on weekend sails to Catalina Island. Visit The Museum’s website at www.sdmaritime.com to find out what’s happening and when.

CLICK HERE to take a virtual tour of the ships at the San Diego Maritime Museum.

Did You Know…? San Diego was once the tuna capitol of the world.

Every one of the ships on display at the Maritime Museum is unique and interesting in its own way. We went on the HMS Surprise first, then the B-39 Submarine, followed by the Star of India, and finally the Berkeley. If you get there a little ahead of their official opening time, they may let you on board one of the ships early which was great because we were able to get a head start and explore the HMS Surprise by ourselves before anyone else came aboard.

HMS Surprise

Movie fans will love this one! It was a great thrill to stand at the helm of the HMS Surprise just like Russell Crowe did as Captain Jack Aubrey. The HMS Surprise, from the Academy Award-winning movie Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World, was acquired by the San Diego Maritime Museum in October 2004.

The HMS Surprise was originally christened HMS Rose when she was launched in 1970. The 179-foot full rigged ship served as a sail training vessel on the East Coast for over 30 years. The Rose underwent extensive modifications for the production of the film in 2002, in a painstaking effort to recreate a 24-gun frigate from Britain’s Royal Navy. The result is a replica vessel unmatched in authenticity and attention to detail.

It was quite amazing to realize how small and compact the Surprise is, when you consider how many men this type of ship would have carried on board. It’s a lot smaller in person than it looks in the movie. Also, standing at the edge of the ship and seeing how low the sides are, you wonder how the crew kept from falling overboard all the time during rough seas. No safety railings here! Those guys really had to be alert and watch what they were doing while on deck. Then consider all the noise, smoke, and confusion there would have been during battles besides!

The Surprise is kind of like two ships in one. First and foremost, it’s a magnificent replica of an 18th century Royal Navy frigate which will be enjoyed by fans of Master and Commander. When you go below, you can see the cannons, captain’s quarters, displays of uniforms, etc. At the same time, fans of Pirates of the Caribbean will enjoy all of the educational exhibits about pirates.

The “Pirates of the Pacific” exhibit highlights the exploits of William Dampier, a sophisticated buccaneer who mixed an interest in natural science and geography with a lust for adventure. Also learn about Robinson Crusoe, Treasure Island, Chinese pirates, pirate treasures, doubloons, pirate weapons, and much more. There is even a hands-on area with paper, crayons, and samples provided for kids to draw their own pirate flag and treasure map. “Pirates of the Pacific” is a fascinating collection of artifacts, pictures, and displays focusing on these “outlaws of the ocean.”

The B-39 Submarine

The B-39 was built by the Soviets in the early 1970’s and remained on duty by the Russian Federation until the early 1990’s. Its design was based on a World War II era German U-boat, but it was larger and more powerful. The B-39 was 300 feet in length and could carry 24 torpedoes. On active duty for more than 20 years, the B-39 probably tracked and stalked many U.S. Navy ships.

Note: Anyone who has trouble bending, crouching or climbing, or who is uncomfortable in confined spaces (claustrophobic) may have difficulty touring the B-39 submarine. There are several low hatchways to go through, steep narrow stairs/ladders, and cramped tight spaces. Our 16-year-old son who is 6’2” tall had to keep watching his head so he wouldn’t whack it on a low ceiling, doorway, or pipe. The bunks all seemed short, too – I guess a submarine is not the best place for a tall person! Finally when we got down to the engine room he could stand up straight.

Also, if you have a family member who likes to read in the bathroom, he would not be a good candidate for the submarine crew. With 78 men on board, lingering in the “head” was not tolerated. (But the sign didn’t say what they would do to you!) People in our family tend to be late quite often, too, which would not be a good idea on a submarine. In case of emergency, the crew would run through the ship closing and locking the hatches behind them, and they would not be allowed to open them again – no matter who was banging on the other side. So you definitely don’t want to be running late on a sub!

Star of India

I was amazed at how large the Star of India is, especially compared to the Surprise. We boarded the main deck, went up onto an upper deck, went down into a lower deck and then another deck below that. It's long, too, so that ship could hold a lot of cargo! Now it is mostly museum and exhibit space with lots of displays to look at, a children’s education section, as well as having some working and storage areas that are closed to the public.

The Star of India is an iron-hulled ship that was built on the Isle of Man in 1863, when most vessels were still being built of wood. Back then she was called the Euterpe and often traveled to India as a cargo ship. In 1871 she embarked on a new career of hauling emigrants from England, Ireland and Scotland to New Zealand (also sometimes Australia, California and Chile).

From 1902-1923, she was owned by the Alaska Packers who renamed her the Star of India and converted her to a fishing and canning vessel. By 1923, sailing ships had become obsolete and steam powered ships ruled the seas. In 1926, the Star of India was sold to the Zoological Society of San Diego to be the centerpiece of a planned museum and aquarium. But that plan had to be canceled because of The Great Depression and World War II.

For three decades, the Star of India languished in port; it wasn’t until the 1960’s that her restoration began. In 1976, the fully restored Star of India went to sea for the first time in fifty years. The Star of India now sails at least once a year, maintained by a volunteer crew that trains year-round. Star of India is the second-oldest ship afloat, after the USS Constitution (“Old Ironsides”) which is docked in Boston. The Star of India is called the world’s oldest active ship, though, since the Constitution is not in seaworthy condition and just turns around in the harbor once a year.

Did You Know…? The Euterpe (aka Star of India) survived a collision, a mutiny, a cyclone, the death of her first captain on board, and many storms at sea.

The Berkeley

The Berkeley is a historically and architecturally unique vessel from the Victorian Age and the golden age of steam. The Berkeley is one huge ferryboat! Aboard the vessel are numerous exhibits and displays, the museum store, a maritime research library, offices, workshop, model shop, storage areas, and a special events venue with room for 800 guests. Take a 360-degree panoramic virtual tour of the Berkley: http://www.sdmaritime.org/berktour/BerkeleyVT.asp

Did You Know…? During the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire, the Berkeley carried thousands of people to safety.

We spent an average of about an hour on each ship, but by the end the kids were tired and hungry so we were rushing a bit on the last one. It would be nice if they would consider offering individual admissions for each ship so that we could go back to visit our favorite one over and over again instead of having to pay for them all.

MacAlpine’s ~ October 21, 2006

After we picked up Peter, we went to MacAlpine’s Soda Fountain for lunch. MacAlpine's Restaurant and Soda Fountain is located in an old red brick building dating back to 1928. The address is 2303 N. Seventh St., Phoenix. MacAlpine’s once included a drugstore and a small shop adjoining the soda fountain. Now it contains Vintage Treasures and a large antique store next door. Unlike some places that are designed around a nostalgic theme, when you enter this restaurant you really do take a step back in time. MacAlpine’s features a collection of genuine memorabilia including antique Coke signs. Check out the 1952 jukebox as you walk in the front door. You can sit at the original counter on one of the swivel stools, in a booth, or at a small table. They serve burgers, sandwiches, soups and salads in addition to the typical fountain fare of shakes, malts, sodas and sundaes. They even have old-fashioned Eggcreams™ and Phosphates™ with 34 flavors to choose from! MacAlpine’s uses Thrifty™ brand ice cream, which many of us here in Arizona will remember being sold in drug stores when we were kids. Oh, and MacAlpine’s homemade lemonade is delicious! They also have seafood chowder, French onion soup, and Black Bean vegetarian burgers. Bring the family and experience an authentic 1950’s malt shop atmosphere. www.macalpinessodafountain.com

Indian School Park ~ October 21, 2006

Art class, Phoenix Indian School, Arizona. Photographed by Messinger, June 1900.

American Indian Select List number 161.

Courtesy of The National Archives, http://www.archives.gov/

While we were in the area, I had been wanting to drive past the Phoenix Indian School and see it again, but it wasn’t the way I remembered it. I expected to see a big old building right next to the street, but instead it’s a large grassy park with a few smaller buildings set back from the road.

Maybe I’m thinking of something else, or maybe the building I’m thinking of was torn down. Because they say that the rubble wall of the waterfall (behind the ampitheater) is recycled from an old Phoenix Indian School building. The architect also saved the WPA (Works Progress Administration) stamps from the original sidewalks and incorporated these into rubble walls throughout the park.

Today the complex is called Steele Indian School Park, and it’s one of the biggest parks in Phoenix. A wide circular walkway called “The Circle of Life” is at the heart of the park. In the center is a concrete water cistern on which is etched a poem that explains the American Indian design theme of the park. The Arbor Bridge and Entry Garden features a spiraling walkway that winds its way past native desert plants. There are columns with plaques on them and descriptive texts about the history of the school. The park also has a green area with grass and trees, an amphitheater, lake, dog area, and neighborhood playground.

I don’t know why they would demolish some historic buildings and choose to save others, but three of the old buildings remain:

Memorial Hall – This auditorium was built in 1922 to honor the students who fought in WWI, and it will be restored as an auditorium.

Band Building – Built in 1933, this building started out as the elementary school and later became the band building. It will be remodeled into Museum/Administrative Offices.

Dining Hall – Built in 1901, the dining hall will become a Native American Cultural Center and Museum.

Founded in 1891, the United States Industrial Indian School at Phoenix, later known as the Phoenix Indian School, was a coeducational, federal boarding school. Native American Indian children were brought from the reservations to be educated and assimilated into the white man's culture.

The campus had fourteen brick and twenty frame buildings which included a large schoolhouse, a two-story building containing employee quarters and a student dining hall, a shop for vocational training, several dormitories, a bathhouse, boiler house, water and sewer system. There were acres of fields where they grew hay, turnips, cabbages, tomatoes, and melons. They also had horses, mules, cattle, pigs, ducks, turkeys, and chickens. These provided for the vocational education of the students and also contributed to the school’s self-sufficiency.

An act of Congress, signed by President Ronald Reagan in November 1988, was to close the Phoenix Indian School and pass its administration from the Bureau of Indian Affairs to the National Park Service. Nineteen students, the last graduating class, walked up to the stage inside Memorial Hall and received their diplomas on May 24, 1990.

Websites

http://phoenix.gov/PARKS/sisp.html (Steele Indian School Park.)
http://www.archaeology.org/online/features/phoenix/ (Archaeology of the Phoenix Indian School.)