WILLIAMS TO JEROME ~ June 10, 2007

This was one of the most scenic road trips ever! All these years, we never realized there was a back road to Jerome! Be sure to stock up on gas, water, and snacks before heading down this remote route because you won’t find any amenities once you leave Williams. Starting at 4th Street in downtown Williams, take Forest Road 173 (Perkinsville Road) south and just keep going.

Perkinsville Road is about 50 miles long and the first half is paved, while the rest is gravel. The road is a little dusty and bumpy in spots, but overall it’s a really nice graded road. In fact, we were wondering why this lonely road out in the middle of nowhere would be so well-maintained. We passed a couple of forest ranger trucks coming from the opposite direction, and only a few other people along the whole way.

The road begins in the Ponderosa pine forest of the upland plateau, then it gradually drops down the side of the Mogollon Rim. It’s such a straight road as it gently slopes downward that you hardly even notice, but when you look back you can see the Mogollon Rim behind you. It’s the western end of the same plateau that juts up near Payson and cuts across the center of Arizona.

From there, the road enters juniper-and-piñon country followed by the high-desert terrain of the Verde Valley, and crosses the Verde River at historic Perkinsville Ranch. This deserted ranch is nestled between two national forests and adjacent to a designated wilderness area, not to mention the wild and scenic river flowing through a beautiful valley.

The Verde River starts at Sullivan Lake, where Big Chino Wash and Williamson Valley Wash merge south of Paulden, then flows south by southeast about 170 miles before reaching its Salt River confluence. The Verde is a perennial stream, which is unique in a state known for its dry riverbeds, although its water level varies greatly depending on the amount of snowmelt and rainfall runoff it gets from the mountains.

In 1864, it was here that James Baker and his partner James Campbell started one of the largest cattle and horse operations in Arizona. They called it Verde Ranch after the river than ran through the open range of native gramma grass in this central Arizona Territory. The severe drought years of the 1890’s, however, forced the partners to sell.

The Verde Ranch was purchased by Marion Alexander Perkins. The Perkins family sold beef to the miners in Jerome, and starting in 1912 when the Santa Fe Railway built the Clarkdale-to-Drake standard-gauge spur through there, they could ship cattle to market right from the ranch. The railroad depot near the ranch headquarters was named Perkinsville. The heyday of Perkins Ranch ended with the closing of Jerome’s copper mines in the 1950’s. In 1962, Perkinsville regained some prominence when How the West Was Won was filmed on the ranch property and also at the Verde River railroad bridge. It’s hard to believe that such a once-bustling place is abandoned now, vanished just like the Indians who lived there centuries before.

Stop and take a swim or go fishing in the river if you want, then you have a choice of driving up the rugged hills to Jerome, or continuing down into Chino Valley. The winding road up to Jerome seemed a lot scarier to me than the road up Bill Williams Mountain. This portion of the Perkinsville Road has quite a few hairpin curves of its own, but this time it’s along the edge of cliffs with no trees or guardrails to add a sense of safety. Although coming from this direction, at least you are on the inside!

At this point you’re actually following an old narrow gauge railroad grade that went from the mining town of Jerome over to the settlement of Jerome Junction for transferring loads of copper. Lots of laborers lived in Jerome Junction which had a hotel, store, and saloon. It’s just east of where Chino Valley is now but there’s nothing left of Jerome Junction today. However, the whole area is a unique geological wonderland featuring rugged desert canyons, crimson cliffs, and spectacular panoramic views.

When you get to the part where the road goes through a couple of narrow cuts in the red rock, you know that you are getting close to Jerome. You will come around a bend and go down past the Gold King Mine and Ghost Town on the outskirts of Jerome. After that long desolate drive, you are suddenly thrust into the midst of a popular tourist haven, where even a parking place is hard to find along Jerome’s main street!
Driving time: Allow at least two hours one way, or more if you like to stop and admire the scenery.

BILL WILLIAMS MOUNTAIN ~ June 10, 2007

You can either hike or drive to the top of Bill Williams Mountain (9,256 ft.), where there is a lookout tower that you can climb (at your own risk) for an even higher view. The lookout tower is manned, so if you’re brave enough to go up there, the ranger may let you in and show you around. It’s cramped quarters, though, with barely room enough for four visitors at a time. It was super windy when we were there, especially on the open stairway up to the tower. I’m scared of heights so I stayed down by the car but the guys all went up and got to go inside the tower. In addition to the lookout tower, there are a couple of small buildings and numerous communications equipment at the summit.

We drove up the mountain because the hike takes six hours and seemed like it would be a little difficult for the younger kids and me. To drive there, simply take Forest Road 173 (Perkinsville Road) south from 4th Street in downtown Williams and after about five miles, turn west onto FR111. The road is well-graded and four-wheel drive is probably not needed, but it’s steep with many hairpin turns as it winds its way up to the top. I wasn’t as scared as I thought I’d be because the road was pretty wide and lined with trees, which meant that at least we weren’t on the edge of sheer drop-offs or anything, even though we were really high up there and the views were breathtaking. It’s supposed to be a popular drive in the fall for seeing autumn colors.

On our way up, we passed a couple who were riding bikes to the top. We passed them again on the way down, but they were almost there by then. It was certainly a tough ride up, but must have been quite exciting going back down!

Also as we were going around one of the curves, I spotted a dog tied to a tree just off the side of the road. We stopped to check on him and he didn’t look hungry or thirsty or anxious, so hopefully everything was okay. Perhaps his owner was just letting him rest there in the shade of the tree while he went off on a hike or something. There are some nice campsites along the first part of the road under the pine trees on the edge of the meadows. We’ll have to keep that in mind for next time.

Bill Williams Mountain, the town of Williams, and the Bill Williams River in western Arizona were all named after William Sherley Williams, a.k.a. Bill Williams. He was a mountain man, hunter, scout and guide who traveled through the Mogollon and Little Colorado River region of Arizona in 1837, living off the land and trapping beaver. Then he headed west across the Colorado Plateau to the Colorado River, thus completing his only known visit to what is now Arizona. Williams was killed by Ute Indians while transporting baggage for the Fremont expedition in 1849.

While Bill Williams Mountain is a lone peak, it is one of a series of lava domes also consisting of Sitgreaves Mountain and Kendrick Peak, which rise along a fault line stretching west from Humphrey’s Peak.

WILLIAMS, AZ ~ June 10, 2007

On Saturday night after the Beale presentation, we left Riordan Mansion and got onto Route 66 heading west from Flagstaff toward Williams. (As you’re leaving Riordan Mansion State Historic Park, just continue straight through the intersection at Hwy. 180 to get onto Old Hwy. 66.) Route 66 takes you out of Flagstaff as it runs diagonally toward I-40. Then we had to get on I-40 for a while, but we got off on Parks Road which again is the same as Old Route 66. After a while, Parks Road just kind of turns into Forest Road 74 and heads north past the Pittman Valley Helibase and an El Paso Natural Gas compression station.

After that, the road becomes a dirt road as it continues north and curves to the east (which incidentally is where one of the segments of the Beale Wagon Trail is located). Along the way we saw a couple of deer on the side of the road and a raccoon, its large round eyes glowing with the reflection of our headlights. We set up our tent alongside FR 070. (We would have camped on FR 75 except for the grave, which was a spooky thing to encounter in the woods at night. It looked like a large mound with a white cross on top. In the morning we went back there out of curiosity and it was simply a pile of rocks and the marker said “MAX WILL’S BEST FRIEND.” Poor Max!) We also saw a large herd of deer near there, on both sides of the road.

Heading back in the direction from whence we had come, we turned onto Parks Road and stopped at the Oak Hill Snowplay Area so that we could walk to the Keyhole Sink. It’s an easy mile-long trail through the forest down to the base of a basalt cliff that has petroglyphs on it. One incredibly detailed petroglyph is a dramatic depiction of some Indians hunting a herd of deer at this very spot. While Keyhole Sink looked like the kind of place that Beale would have stopped at, there were no other markings except for the petroglyphs. Perhaps that’s because it’s not a year-round water source. When we were there it consisted only of damp mud – and lots of bugs! But it also contained a natural garden of roses and irises that were just past their prime bloom. What a wonder to see these flowers growing wild out in the middle of a forest in Arizona of all places!

When we got to the town of Williams later that morning, we were just in time to see the Grand Canyon Railway train pulling into the station. The steam train is really impressive when the steam is hissing and the bell is ringing – and it’s really loud, too! We ran right up next to it so we could even see the fire inside and the smallest valves moving. We stood there for the longest time looking at it, it’s such an interesting piece of mechanical equipment to watch. (See movie clip here) We had no idea how long the train was going to be stopped there, and by then it was noon so we walked over to the main street to get something to eat at Old Smokey’s Restaurant and Pancake House. Old Smokey’s opened for business in 1946 and it’s been in that same location for over 60 years, so it is truly a Route 66 original. When we came back out an hour later, the train was gone.

After lunch we walked to the Williams Visitor Center on the corner of Railroad Ave. and Grand Canyon Blvd., which is located near the train station just down a ways from where we had parked. At first a tour bus loaded with Japanese tourists was stopped there, but soon they left and we had the place mostly to ourselves. The building itself has an interesting history as the Santa Fe Railway depot for Williams and the Grand Canyon. Built of brick in 1901, it was later moved across the tracks for use as a freight depot. Restored in 1994, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Williams Visitor Center is jointly operated by the Williams-Grand Canyon Chamber of Commerce and the National Forest Service. One half of the visitor center is full of information and racks of brochures for the local area as well as from all around the state, while also offering a variety of books, maps, and souvenirs to purchase. The other half is a museum with interactive exhibits explaining the history of Williams, the prehistory of the area, Route 66, forest ecosystems, fire ecology and water conservation. (For example, did you know that just by turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth you save 3-4 gallons of water?) A “Kids Corner” offers hands-on activities for the family.

This is an excellent, must-see visitor center – families will especially appreciate being able to view all of the interesting museum-quality exhibits for free! The Visitor Center is staffed seven days a week, and for after-hours visitors there is an interactive computer that provides information. The rangers there will be able to answer any questions that you have, too. They gave us a couple of handouts showing how to get up Bill Williams Mountain, which was where we were going next.

BEALE WAGON ROAD, 150th ANNIVERSARY ~ June 9, 2007

Coincidentally, the same year that I discovered the historic Beale Wagon Road also happens to be the Beale Wagon Road’s 150^th Anniversary! I was excited to see that historian Jerry Snow, a docent at the Museum of Northern Arizona, was going to be presenting a free lecture and slide show about the Beale Wagon Road at 7:00 pm on June 9, at Riordan Mansion State Historic Park. The park grounds closed at 5:00 pm, but the gates re-opened at 6:30 for guests to attend the presentation.

I was surprised at how many visitors turned out for this topic – the audience contained at least 40 people. However, most of them were older retirees. Don’t young people care about history? There was only one other child there besides our three, and she appeared to be the park ranger’s daughter. We ended up way in the back which made it a little difficult to hear the speaker (no microphone) and see the slides (especially those with words), but that was okay because we were right next to a side door where Jon, Josh, and the little girl could go out into a courtyard and walk around when they got bored.

There were two previous federal expeditions through this area (Sitgreaves in 1851 and Whipple in 1853-54). Nevertheless, the story of Beale and his unique expedition is a most fascinating one, with long-lasting historical significance. Here is a brief overview:

In 1857, the War Department decided to look for an alternative route to California. This was partly because of the mounting pressure to subdue the Mormons in Utah, and also because the lengthy Gila Trail to the south ran through the middle of dangerous Apache country. Congress commissioned Edward Fitzgerald Beale, a retired Navy Lieutenant, to survey a wagon road along the 35th parallel from Fort Defiance, New Mexico Territory, to the Colorado River crossing on the California-Arizona border.

A secondary objective of Beale’s mission was to test the feasibility of using camels in the American Southwest as pack animals. Camels were well suited to the arid desert, they were capable of traveling for days without water, carried much heavier loads than mules, and could thrive on coarse forage that other animals wouldn’t touch. Beale’s camel driver Hadji Ali (Hi Jolly) later lived in western Arizona and is buried at Quartzite. Camels might have become a success in the Old West except that horses were afraid of them and mules didn’t like them. When the Civil War broke out, the camel experiment was dropped and the camels were auctioned off or abandoned. Wild camels could be seen roaming around the desert through the early 1900’s. (See: Camels for Uncle Sam, by Diane Yancey, Hendrick-Long Publishing Co., Dallas TX, 1995.)

As for the Beale survey party, in September of 1857 they passed through what is now Flagstaff with 50 men, 100 mules, 10 wagons, 22 Egyptian camels, over 300 sheep, plus lots of supplies and equipment. Each morning, Beale would have everyone get up and travel ten miles before breakfast. The front page of The Weekly Arizonian newspaper reported: “[Beale] intends to make a good road and construct bridges wherever they are needed. He has a strong force of men and animals and being an officer of great skill and energy will doubtless make a fine route to California.”

Beale’s Wagon Road was the first federally funded interstate highway to traverse the rugged southwest desert, canyons, and rocky terrain obtained at the end of the Mexican-American War. This road was to save an estimated 200 miles and thirteen days of travel. However, an unfortunate tragedy befell the first group of pioneers who attempted to follow the Beale Wagon Road in 1858. The Rose-Baley wagon train, comprised of a group of Missouri and Iowa emigrants that met in Albuquerque, encountered a deadly reception at the Colorado River crossing, instigated by Mojave Indians who turned out to be more hostile than anyone expected. The disaster was so notorious that as a consequence, the Beale Wagon Road was avoided by most emigrant parties. (See Disaster at the Colorado: Beale's Wagon Road and the First Emigrant Party, by Charles W. Baley, Utah State University Press, June 2002.)

Some homesteaders did come to the Flagstaff area from California on Beale Wagon Road in the 1870’s. However, it wasn’t until the opening of a railroad along the route, followed by the development of the automobile, that this historic road finally became widely used. In fact, Beale’s Wagon Road was the route that was later to become the famous Route 66 across the Southwest (generally followed now by Interstate 40).

If you can afford $265 per person, you can join Jerry Snow for a series of three day-long guided field trips to visit remaining sections of the original Beale Wagon Road that are still visible between Leupp and Seligman, AZ. (The next trip is scheduled for October 2007; see www.mnaventures.org/day-trips_beale-wagon.html.) Otherwise, you can do a little research and exploring on your own to discover Beale’s trail, some portions of which are travelable by car and others which are only accessible by foot. The following references will provide a good start:

A Guide to the Beale Wagon Road Through Flagstaff, Arizona by Jack Beale Smith. (Flagstaff: Tales of the Beale Road Publishing Company, 1984.)

www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai/recreation/trails/wil_beale.shtml (Beale Wagon Road Historic Trail #31, printable handout and trail guide from the Williams Ranger District of the Kaibab National Forest.)

P.S. Another clue as to the whereabouts of the old Beale Trail is the El Paso Natural Gas pipeline. Mr. Snow mentioned that whenever he’s out searching for the Beal Trail, he often comes across a natural gas line. We noticed that, too, on our scouting expeditions!

FLAGSTAFF, AZ ~ June 9, 2007

For the most part we’ve been bypassing Flagstaff on our Route 66 trips lately, but this time it was our destination. Jon had a birthday postcard for $5 off any book at Bookmans, so that was our first stop. Then we looked around the downtown area for a while, went into Peace Surplus, and got to see a few trains passing through. I would have stopped at the Flagstaff Visitor Center next to the tracks, but the parking lot was full. Actually, the whole downtown area was crowded and congested. I realize that Flagstaff is not the small town that it used to be, but personally I think it’s grown too much for its own good. Despite the presence of historic museums and old buildings, Flagstaff has gotten away from its Western roots and has become a typical liberal college town. We might as well have been in downtown Tempe!

Anyway, we decided to drive east on Old Route 66. Originally I was looking for something like a Route 66-style diner (and we did drive past the classic Museum Club restaurant), but we decided to eat at the Salsa Brava Fresh Mexican Grill (2220 East Route 66). We got there at 5:00 and soon after that it got pretty busy, mostly families like us with children. The prices were quite reasonable and they offer a wide selection of appetizers, salads, fajitas, enchiladas, traditional plates, house specialties, breakfasts, desserts, and a children’s menu. Along with the bowl of chips, they give each person a little cup to bring up to the salsa bar. This way everyone can choose their own salsa according to their personal taste. We sat right across from a wall covered with award plaques for “Best Mexican Food,” “Best Salsa,” and more. The food was indeed fresh, healthy, and delicious, while the service was friendly and fast. We too would rate this restaurant as excellent!

MY BIRTHDAY TRIP ~ June 9, 2007

Well, what exciting destination do you think I chose for my birthday weekend trip? Route 66 of course! I wanted to do a few things that we didn’t get around to the last time, and I also wanted to attend a special lecture at the Riordan Mansion State Historic Park in Flagstaff. That wasn’t going to be till the evening, so we took a leisurely drive up north on Saturday morning. Usually we’re in a hurry to get somewhere but since we had plenty of time on this day, Rich wanted to stop at the San Dominique Winery.

Located in the hills above the Verde Valley at 4,600 feet just off I-17 and Hwy 169 (southeast corner), the San Dominique Winery was founded in 1978 with a vineyard of premium varieties of wine grapes. Owner William Staltari continues the tradition handed down to him by his father, Joseph Severio Staltari, who in 1903 brought his family’s fine food and wine recipes to America from Calabria, Italy. In addition to 16 varieties of award-winning wines, the San Dominique Winery also offers over 65 gourmet garlic products – thus their website is called www.garlicparadise.com.

It had been years since we’d stopped at the San Dominique Winery. I wasn’t even sure if they were still in business, because the place looked run down and their signs on the side of I-17 weren’t visible any more. When we headed east on Hwy 169 (Cherry Road) and then down the dirt driveway toward the winery, it still didn’t look promising. There were old vehicles and other junk laying around, the outdoor patio furniture was faded and dusty, and I would have thought the place was abandoned until we got out and went up to the building which was hidden behind some large trees.

The exterior of San Dominique Winery may be past its prime, but “you can’t judge a book by its cover.” They still offer a great selection of unique Arizona-grown products, all of which are professionally packaged with their own labels and look just like those found on a gourmet grocery store shelf. Some are seasonal, but most are available year-round. All of their original recipes are formulated and packed in their own kitchen using only the freshest fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices. These are preserved in glass jars and bottles with the use of pickling and brine solutions, and without the use of fillers, chemical preservatives, or MSG. They also use organically grown produce when available locally.

Some of their products include: Pickled Carrots, Garlic Mayonnaise, Garlic Dijon Mustard, Pickled Garlic, Bread Dipping Sauce, Raspberry Chipotle Barbeque Sauce, Sun Dried Tomato Salsa, Roasted Garlic Salsa, Roasted Garlic Pasta Sauce, Tangy Garlic Dressing, Sweet Lemon Rosemary Dressing, Classic Caesar Dressing, Roasted Sweet Pepper Jam, Chocolate Fudge Sauce, and Dessert Toppings. (No, the last two don’t contain any garlic, ha!)

Visitors are welcome between the hours of 10am-5pm, seven days a week. So if you’re a garlic lover, wine taster, or gourmet food connoisseur, consider taking a detour over to San Dominique whenever you’re on your way up north.

ZUNI, NM ~ May 27, 2007

I was greatly impressed to see how clean and neat the Zuni and Navajo Indian reservations are in New Mexico. They are very well-kept, quite idyllic and picturesque. You can tell that these people truly care about their homes, villages, and land. This was quite a contrast to the Hualapai reservation that we recently visited in Arizona – in the town of Peach Springs on scenic Old Route 66 of all places – where you drive past a residential neighborhood and see trash laying everywhere. I respect the fact that the Hualapai Nation hasn’t resorted to making money from gambling casinos and I admire them for trying to develop a legitimate tourist industry at Grand Canyon West instead. However, if they really want to attract tourists they should work on cleaning up their yards! It’s not just old junk cars and stuff like that, either, but actual litter that has blown around and is piled up in backyards and stuck in fences. I can understand people being poor, but that’s no excuse for being lazy and messy. I am so glad to know that not all Indian communities are like that! I wonder what causes the difference in people’s standards of living, why some are satisfied to live in slum conditions and others are proud of the environment in which they live? I did notice that the New Mexico Indians had their own farms and ranches, while the Arizona Indians had what looked like government housing. Perhaps that provides a clue, since people are more likely to take care of what they have worked hard to obtain, as compared to something in which they have no vested interest. What do you think?

EL MORRO, NM ~ May 27, 2007

Just west of El Malpais National Monument on Highway 53, is El Morro National Monument. Between these two parks, simply marked with a little sign, is the Continental Divide. This is the natural geologic and hydrologic north-south boundary that runs through North America, separating the Atlantic Ocean watershed from the Pacific Ocean watershed.

When we were driving to El Morro I didn’t know what to expect so after a while I was wondering if we had passed it. But I found out that it’s impossible to miss this landmark from the highway! El Morro – “the headland” or “the fortress” – was quite impressive even from a distance. About 15 miles west of the Continental Divide, in the middle of a high desert plain you suddenly come upon a huge rock formation looming 200 feet above the surrounding landscape. It reminded me of El Capitan at Yosemite, CA.

So it’s a large rock, what’s the big deal you say? Well, there is much more to it than that! El Morro’s prominence actually has more to do with history than geology. This sandstone monolith sheltered an oasis that attracted Anasazi, Spanish, and American travelers throughout a 700-year period. Just go to the Visitor Center and find out all about it. The building is set up like a museum with exhibits and a video to watch, which provide an overview of El Morro’s significance at the “Crossroads of the Southwest.”

To begin with, an ancient Indian route between the Acoma and Zuni pueblos led directly past El Morro. Then sometime in the late 13th century, Anasazi Indians built an 875-room pueblo on top of the bluff. It was an easily defensible spot, inaccessible to outsiders, with a shaded pool at the base of the cliff for a dependable year-round water source. The pool also attracted coyotes, deer and other wild creatures. Rain and snow melt kept the pool filled to the brim, with cattails growing at the water’s edge. However, after a couple of generations the Anasazis abandoned that site for unknown reasons as they did others in the Southwest. Their petroglyphs of bear tracks, human hands, and other symbols can still be seen on the sandstone wall.

Following the Indians came the Europeans. El Morro became as much of a landmark and water source for the Spanish conquistadors as it was for the natives. Not everyone left a message, but the first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal of Diego Pérez de Luxán. He traveled with the Espejo Expedition, which stopped there for water on March 11, 1583. Don Juan de Oñate, the first Spanish Governor of Northern New Spain, carved his name with the words “pasó por aqui” (“passed by here”) on April 16, 1605.

In 1680, the Pueblo Indian revolt drove the Spaniards from New Mexico. Twelve years later, Don Diego de Vargas, the most famous governor of New Mexico, restored order and left this message at El Morro: “Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who conquered for our Holy Faith and for the Royal Crown all of New Mexico at his own expense, year of 1692.” (At that time, the province of New Mexico extended roughly from the border of Louisiana to the border of California.)

Many more explorers, soldiers, Indian agents, surveyors, pioneers, and settlers stopped at El Morro. These include: Dominguez-Escalante (1776), De Zuñiga (1795), Young (1829), Sitgreaves (1851), Whipple (1853), Doniphan (1846), J.H. Simpson and R.H. Kern (1849), sheep drives to and from California (1830-1880), and military wagons (1840-1880). It was on August 23, 1859, when an Army expedition led by Lieutenant Edward Beale passed by El Morro as they sought to survey a wagon road from Texas to California. Beale’s entourage included 25 Egyptian camels being tested as pack animals. Their wrangler, P. Gilmer Breckinridge, also left his signature on the rock.

After the Beale wagon road was established, so many visitors passed by this site as they headed westward toward California, that the Inscription Rock at El Morro was almost as popular as Register Cliff (Guernsey, WY) along the Oregon Trail. The Prescott to Santa Fe stagecoach line also ran by El Morro from 1863-1882. This road continued to be the major route west until a railroad line was built about 20 miles to the north and travelers no longer depended on the water supply at El Morro.

The inscriptions at El Morro range from ancient petroglyphs, to simple scratchings, to elaborate scripts, to etchings by professional tombstone carvers. Some of the older carvings were even overlapped by newer ones. While at one time it was desirous to carve your name in the inscription rock, today you’re not allowed to touch any of the carvings or add your own. Since 1906 when the site was proclaimed to be a National Monument, it’s been closed to all new rock writings due to the historical significance of this stone document. But just outside the visitor center they provide a large chunk of soft sandstone for those who can’t resist the urge to see their name written in stone.

There is a $6.00 per person admission charge at El Morro to go out on the trail. (They will give you a detailed booklet that translates the Spanish engravings and explains each person named.) It’s an easy, half-mile, one-hour or less self-guided walk to see the pool and inscriptions. A more strenuous two-mile hike leads to the Indian pueblos on top of the bluff. But even if you don’t venture any further, you can learn a lot at the Visitor’s Center museum for free. It was getting late in the day when we were there and none of us felt like walking any more after our long hike at El Malpais, so we just stayed in the museum and watched the movie about it. But next time I definitely want to go back there and take the trail!

EL MALPAIS, NM ~ May 27, 2007

You can see some outcroppings of lava along I-40 near Grants, but that’s just a hint of what is contained within El Malpais National Monument. This national monument in the high desert of northwestern New Mexico is covered with lava flows, cinder cones, pressure ridges, and lava tubes. In satellite images (such as Google Earth), a large lava bed southwest of Grants looks a lot like a huge lake.

El Malpais is Spanish for “the badlands,” but it seems like a good place to me – it’s a unique environment full of geology and history that’s suitable for hiking, spelunking, scenic driving and primitive camping – plus there isn’t even an entrance fee! Despite the rough and rugged volcanic terrain, El Malpais also contains prehistoric ruins, ancient cairns, rock structures, and remains of homesteads.

There are two Visitor Centers in El Malpais, one on State Highway NM117 and the other on NM53. The Visitor Center on NM53 seems to be the busier of the two, and it has a large bookstore. The Visitor Center on NM117 was quieter and the interior was like a museum, with extensive displays on the history and geology of the El Malpais area. It’s well worth stopping there to see the exhibits! Be sure to ask about the Junior Ranger program which will give the kids something to do as you explore the area, too.

State Highway NM117, which runs along the eastern border of El Malpais, provides a 30-mile scenic drive along McCarty’s Lava Flow. This is the youngest flow, dated between 2000-3000 years old. In fact, it’s one of the youngest basaltic lava flows in the world. Black lava deposits – both rippled and jagged – lay across enormous stretches of the landscape, interspersed with bushes and other vegetation.

This side of the park also provides access to breathtaking sandstone bluffs and an impressive natural rock arch. La Ventana Natural Arch, the largest in New Mexico, can be seen about 20 miles south of I-40, just west of NM117, in the sandstone cliffs that flank the lava to the east.

State Highway 53 follows the northern boundary of the monument, paralleling the El Calderon Lava Flow which is much older. If you have a high clearance vehicle, you can also travel the western portion of the monument by way of County Road 42, which is a 32-mile dirt road known as the Chain of Craters Backcountry Byway. There are supposed to be as many as 29 old cinder cones and craters in this area.

Although you can see lots of lava formations while driving in the car, the best way to experience El Malpais is by hiking through it. Be sure to stay on the trails, take plenty of water, and don’t let kids go running up ahead because the lava contains deep fissures as well as having sharp edges and being generally unstable. Also, some routes are not that obvious and are marked only by cairns of lava rocks.

Seasoned hikers may take the seven-mile Zuni-Acoma Trail, an ancient Indian route that crosses the lava between NM 117 and NM 53, between the two major Indian pueblos that Coronado’s expedition encountered in 1540. The most popular trail is a scenic 3-mile trail off NM53 that leads past large lava caves, huge sinkholes, and an impressive cinder cone before heading back to the parking lot.

As you explore the area, you will see that the weathered lava rocks are generally black on the surface, with a lighter, pinkish-gray color underneath due to a longer cooling time and less exposure. Many lava features in El Malpais have Hawaiian names because early scientific knowledge of volcanoes was developed in the Hawaiian islands. For example: sharp, jagged lavas are aa (pronounced ah-ah); and smooth, twisted lavas are pahoehoe (pah-hoy-hoy). But some of the geological terms for surface features on lava flows were first defined in New Mexico, not Hawaii.

El Malpais National Monument and the adjacent BLM land contains lots of lava tubes, a.k.a. lava caves. Lava tubes are formed when lava flows through the earth’s crust. As the outer edges of the lava cool and solidify, the molten lava in the center continues flowing and eventually drains away, leaving an empty tunnel. The lava tube system in this region supposedly extends at least 17 miles. When a portion of the tunnel roof near the surface collapses, it creates an opening that you can climb down into. This forms a cave that usually has a dead end, but we went into a tube that had an opening on both ends so we could go in one side and out the other.

Adjacent to El Malpais National Monument is the Bandera Volcano and Ice Caves which is a private park that charges an entry fee. The ice cave is a collapsed lava tube that stays a constant 31º F year-round and has a layer of ice that’s estimated to be 20 feet thick. We did not stop there because we were trying to save money on this trip and we had already gone into a lava tube and walked around a volcano rim for free at El Malpais National Monument. I think Bandera is the largest crater in the area, though, and I’m sure it would be interesting to see the ice cave too – maybe next time!

MT. TAYLOR, NM ~ May 26-27, 2007

“We just have to go back there!” That quote from my 7-year-old son echoes what we all thought about our trip up Mount Taylor. Although white settlers christened it Mount Taylor after General Zachary Taylor, this mountain had long been an area of special religious and cultural significance to several local American Indian communities. It turned out to be a magical place to us as well.

After eating at Chili Kicks on Route 66, we went to find a place to camp for the night. To get to Mount Taylor from Grants, go north on First Street until you reach Lobo Canyon Road. You will go past a Smith’s supermarket, the Mount Taylor Ranger District office, a nice subdivision, and then a state prison. From there it’s a gently curving road up into the mountains. The paved portion reminded me of the road that Lightning McQueen and Sally drove on in Cars, but without the waterfall. After about 13 miles, the pavement ends and from there it is a good dirt-and-gravel road until you get near the top and then the road begins to deteriorate.

Though not as impressive as Humphrey’s Peak in Arizona when seen from a distance, Mount Taylor is considered to be one of New Mexico's most beautiful peaks and its location is not all that remote, so we were surprised at how little-used the area appeared to be. We were there on Memorial Day weekend but only saw signs of one other group of campers.

The 11,301-foot mountain is the cinder cone of an extinct stratovolcano, surrounded by a field of smaller inactive volcanoes. It is part of the same volcanic system as the lava fields at nearby El Malpais. When Mount Taylor erupted, a large chunk of the summit was blown off, but it’s unclear as to how high the mountain was before the eruption.

As we neared the top of Mount Taylor, the road got so bad and washed out that we couldn’t go any further. There was standing water, too, so it must have either rained recently or it’s just a wetter area than we’re used to Arizona. The top of the mountain is covered with radio towers so I’m surprised that the road isn’t better maintained. I wonder if there is a better access road from the other side for servicing the equipment?

We turned around and went back to a camping spot we had seen next to a grassy meadow, and stayed there for the night. This place was so pristine and beautiful! If it had been in Arizona they would have had to rope off the meadow to keep people from wrecking it from overuse. The meadow was covered with little yellow flowers, and upon closer observation I saw that they were all dandelions. Everyone calls them weeds but dandelions are one of my favorite flowers! Their petals closed up at night but as soon as the morning sun appeared, the dandelions all started opening and the bright yellow petals looked like miniature suns themselves. We could just about see it happening right before our eyes but still I would have liked to have had a time lapse camera to photograph that.

The spot where we were camped out had something for everyone – a pretty flower-covered meadow for me, a mountainside for Rich to hike, some real nice rock outcroppings for the kids to climb on – plus “lots of nature” as Josh always says. The forest was mostly Douglas fir with a few aspen trees, whereas in Arizona it’s mostly ponderosa pine. In the leaf litter under the trees, we even found a few puff balls. One of the cliffs had a cave in it but it was up high and we didn’t have our climbing gear. It would have been the perfect spot to stay and play all day, but we were planning to head down to El Malpais so we had to break up camp. Mount Taylor is at the top of my list of places to go the next time we have another long weekend!

GRANTS, NM ~ May 26, 2007

The town of Grants is named after the Grant brothers who contracted to build the section of transcontinental railroad in this area. Although the first settlers had raised livestock, the timber industry took over once the railroad came in. Logging camps and sawmills sprang up throughout the Zuni Mountains, with branch lines connected to the main railway. In 1931, the lumber business slowed down as did the rest of the nation’s economy. By World War II, railroad logging had ended. Uranium mining began to flourish in the early 1950’s until the 1980’s when that also declined. The town’s population has dropped considerably since then, but Grants looks like a nice community with well-kept parks for the residents and mining museums for the tourists. Grants is the nearest town with hotels close to our next destination of El Malpais National Monument, but this was a budget trip for us and we were going to be camping, which is also easily available in the forested areas around Grants.

One thing to keep in mind about both Grants and Gallup is that most stores and restaurants are closed on Sunday. Coming from Arizona where everything is open all the time, this was surprising and seemed rather quaint in our current day and age. It’s a good thing we were traveling on a budget anyway and had brought a cooler full of sandwiches and snacks. Even so, Rich at least wanted to sample some New Mexico chili so on Saturday night we did stop at a place called Chili Kicks on Route 66. It’s owned by a local chili cookoff winner, Millie Chavez. She had won first place at the annual Chili Fiesta in Grants, as well as first place at the Sky City Salsa and Chili Championships. Definitely a family restaurant, the Chavez family was eating there at the time, too. The furnishings were simple, the prices were inexpensive, and the portions were plenty. The chili, salsa, and enchilada sauce were indeed good but they were all extremely HOT, even for us Arizonans. It’s a good thing they had free refills on soft drinks! If you have tender taste buds, you can just get a plain bean burrito with Spanish rice on the side, which wasn’t too hot. Sit by the window so you can watch the trains go by.

GALLUP, NM ~ May 26, 2007

While the Acoma, Hopi, Navajo, and Zuni Pueblo Indians have lived in northwestern New Mexico for centuries, it also seems that this area has always been a thoroughfare for travelers. Spanish Conquistadors led by Francisco Coronado arrived in the region in 1540, and although this wasn’t the “Seven Cities of Gold” that they were searching for, they did find a sophisticated network of roads connecting the various Indian settlements.

The Spanish were followed by other explorers, mountain men, cattle ranchers, cowboys, sheepherders, homesteaders, and expeditions sent by the U.S. Government to map the territory. (New Mexico became a U.S. territory in 1848.) Europeans, Asians, and Mexicans came to work in the region’s coal mines and build the railroad in the late 1800’s. (Originally called Carbon City, railroad workers re-named the town in 1881 after David Gallup, a paymaster for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad.)

The establishment of Route 66 in the 1920’s led to an increased stream of travelers through Gallup, from farmers fleeing the dust bowl to soldiers starting a new life after World War II. Gallup was one of the first cities along Route 66 to have paved streets from end to end, and the town’s name is mentioned in the lyrics to the popular song, “Route 66.” Today, people still travel that route to see the wonders of the American Southwest.

Gallup is sometimes called the “Indian Capital of the World” for its centralized location in the heart of American Indian country. Since the early frontier days, Gallup has served as a major trading area for Indian arts and crafts. Gallup is the largest city in the American Southwest that holds onto this unique tradition. While Gallup is now a modern trade and tourism center it still retains its trading post atmosphere, western frontier flavor, unique cultural diversity, classic Route 66 roots, and productive railroad industry.

Driving into downtown Gallup along Route 66 you will see a bustling place with lots of traffic moving through, tourists shopping for souvenirs, and trains running along the tracks. There is a big lumber yard right in the center of town. There are over 100 trading posts, shops and galleries specializing in original American Indian art, including upscale galleries for the discriminating buyer. But the transient nature of the town combined with a plethora of roadside motels makes for cheap lodging, which means you will also find plenty of pawn shops, liquor stores, and fast food restaurants in Gallup. There are a dozen old motels all within a mile of the center of town.

El Rancho Hotel with its huge neon sign and western motif is a prime example of the heyday of Route 66. El Rancho was built as a home-away-from-Hollywood for movie stars filming in the area. These included such notable actors as Jackie Cooper, John Wayne, Ronald Reagan, Humphrey Bogart, Katherine Hepburn, and Kirk Douglas. We stopped for gas at a Texaco station across the street from El Rancho, and later I found out that it’s also a Route 66 landmark that the same family has owned and operated since 1939. Oh, and speaking of movie stars, it was great to see an old single screen theater still in operation in the heart of downtown Gallup. Built in 1928, El Morro theater features performing arts as well as movies. (Spiderman 3 was on the marquee when we drove by.)

It was interesting to see that Gallup is a hillside town with steep side roads leading up from the main street into residential neighborhoods. While cruising along Route 66, look for the parking area next to the tracks where there is an old caboose with a map painted on it. You can step up onto the caboose and peek in the windows while watching the trains go past. We were separated from the train tracks by only a fence, and we could hear every squeak and creak of the train cars as they rumbled by. Once when we weren't looking, a locomotive blew his horn right next to us and made us jump!

HOLBROOK, AZ ~ May 26, 2007

Holbrook is located midway between Flagstaff, AZ and Gallup, NM on Historic Route 66, about 30 miles east of Winslow on I-40. Since 1881, Holbrook has been a busy frontier town – first there were the cowboys and cattle ranchers, followed by the railroaders and travelers. Holbrook is served by two railways: the Burlington Northern Santa Fe (BNSF) and the Apache Railroad. The centerpiece of town, the 1898 courthouse, is now home to the Navajo County Historical Society. Holbrook serves as a great base for a tour of Navajo, Hopi and Apache country. It’s also the gateway to Petrified Forest National Park, and you will see lots of petrified wood in and around Holbrook plus souvenir shops where you can buy some.

If you’re looking for an authentic western restaurant, try the Butterfield Stage Co. Steakhouse on Old Route 66. It’s a little pricey (as are most steakhouses) but the food is good and you get large portions. We didn’t go there this time but we ate at the Butterfield Stage Co. last autumn when we visited the Petrified Forest. It’s the exact kind of place where Keita, our friend from Japan, would love to go when he’s in America! The décor is rustic, the atmosphere is friendly, and our waitress was very nice. As I remember, we were there early (around 5:00 pm) so it wasn’t busy yet at that time. I had spaghetti but all of my hungry guys had steak. Butterfield Stage Co. also has a long mural of Route 66 painted on a block wall.

“Have you slept in a wigwam lately?” The Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, built in 1950, is a Route 66 landmark and it’s also listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The Cozy Cone Motel from Pixar’s Cars movie was patterned after the Wigwam, although to keep with the car theme they used orange traffic cones instead of teepees in the movie. At the Wigwam, there are fifteen teepees (numbered 1-16, with no number 13) encircling the motel office. Parked in front of the office and outside some of the teepees are several unrestored classic cars from the good old days of Route 66, giving the place a nostalgic appearance. To add to the excitement, the teepees are probably only about 100 feet away from a busy train track – as are all of the other motels along Old Route 66. (Even the fancy La Posada hotel in Winslow has the track running right behind it.) The trains come through about every half hour and they are loud (you might want to bring ear plugs), but to me that’s part of the thrill of staying on Route 66!

I’d sure like to be able to say that I had personally slept in one of the wigwams, but I can’t find a phone number to make advance reservations and every time we drive by, the office is closed. Apparently the owner just comes for a short while when it’s time for people to check in for the night, so it’s not like we can stop by and ask ahead of time either. I guess you have to be lucky and get there at just the right time when the office is open but before the fifteen rooms are sold out for the night. If anyone has stayed there before or has any more information or a phone number to call for reservations, please let me know!

WINSLOW, AZ ~ May 26, 2007

We got an early start on Friday night and camped about 20 miles south of Winslow, AZ. On Saturday morning upon arriving in Winslow we explored the town and cruised Historic Route 66.

As seen from I-40, this little old town in the middle of nowhere doesn’t seem like much and many people just pass it by. But if you get off the freeway and take a closer look, you will find that Winslow is a wonderful destination in itself! In true Route 66 tradition, the town maintains several unique roadside attractions that are well worth putting this charming place “back on the map.”

▪ Standin’ on the Corner Park has become a draw for music fans who remember the line “standin’ on the corner in Winslow Arizona, such a fine sight to see” from the Eagles’ hit song Take It Easy.

▪ Route 66 fans will enjoy Winslow’s historic downtown business district located right on the Mother Road. Shops and museums offer Route 66 and railroad memorabilia. As one of the major hubs of the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad, train enthusiasts can see the locomotives roar into town. While we were there, we got to hear an engine start up right next to us and watch the train as it slowly crawled away. The track runs parallel with the main street, so there are many vantage points from which to stop and look.

▪ La Posada, a grand hotel designed by renowned Southwest architect Mary Colter, is the last Fred Harvey Hotel surviving in the West. It’s located in downtown Winslow right next to the tracks, a throwback to the days of transcontinental rail travel. All passenger trains running between Los Angeles and Chicago stopped at La Posada in the 1930’s and 1940’s. It closed in 1957 but in 1997 the hotel was restored to its former elegance.

▪ The First Street Pathway links two important historical sites in downtown Winslow: the Hubbell Trading Post (Winslow’s new Visitor Center) and La Posada Hotel. The landscaped pathway is six blocks long and has displays the represent Winslow’s diverse history. Pretty neat!

▪ Old Trails Historical Museum is another location that will interest history buffs. It opened in 1985 in an old downtown bank building constructed in 1920. It still has the original tile floor, marble counters, and vault.

▪ If you don’t stop in Winslow for anything else, the 9-11 Remembrance Garden is a must-see. How could there be a memorial of this magnitude in Arizona without me having heard about it??? It consists of two rusted steel girders from the World Trade Center towers, a flag that was flown at the Pentagon, and a commemorative bronze plaque. The 14 and 15 foot beams are the largest pieces given to any community in the nation by the City of New York, and amazingly they’re displayed right here in Winslow. This was a totally unexpected, emotionally stirring, and quite fitting monument to discover on Memorial Day weekend. The Remembrance Garden is located on the corner of a vacant lot at East 3rd Street and Transcon Lane, right across from the railroad tracks. (From I-40, take exit 255.)

ROUTE 66 - AZ - NM ~ May 25-28, 2007

I’m still on my Route 66 kick! But our destination this time was in a different direction. We headed up to I-40 and went east to New Mexico, passing some of my favorite places such as Meteor Crater, Petrified Forest, and Painted Desert. We also cruised through the towns of Winslow, Holbrook, Gallup and Grants on Old Route 66 before heading south through El Malpais and past El Morro where once again we ran across the trail of Lt. Beale!